The Cheese Plate Done Naturally
In my relatives’ tiny Hungarian village, a “cheese plate” consists of an entire table filled with goat and sheep milk cheeses from the cellar, a large loaf of fresh bread, various house-cured and smoked meats, and whatever fresh fruits and vegetables are on the vine. If we have some plum jam or cherry preserves, we eat them. If we have pickled onions, cucumbers, and peppers, we eat them. We wash it all down with whatever wine is in the cellar. There is no routine, there are no rules. It’s about the conversation, the mixing and matching of the above-mentioned items just comes naturally. We call this glorious gathering of foods, family and friends “snack time.”
As a specialty cheese steward in West Linn, Oregon, I am excited by the availability of so many local and imported artisan cheeses in farmer’s markets and grocery stores. In the same venues hand-crafted breads, salamis, crackers, preserves, wines and pickled vegetables give myriad options for putting together cheese plates and meals that don’t just fill the belly, but inspire and intrigue. As excited as I get about all of this, I completely understand how it also makes preparing a simple cheese tray quite daunting. To help you move beyond your safety zone of chunked ham and Colby Jack, try considering the village cheese plate categories when planning your next event.
Plan for two ounces of cheese total per person, not two ounces per cheese per person—and remember that variety makes the plate. If you have access to a cheese steward, drill them for recommendations. They are an invaluable resource!
Cheese: Think hard cheese, brie cheese, blue cheese, a stinky cheese, and a goat or sheep milk cheese. Consider your own tastes, but remember that one person's Limburger and onions is another person's triple-cream brie and peach preserves. Also consider juxtaposition of flavors: a mouth-numbing, piquant blue across from a delicate and buttery triple-cream brie provide the palate with a true spectrum of flavors, while fresh goat’s milk cheese - smooth with hints of citrus - and an aged gouda - hard with burnt butter and nutty notes - explore differences in texture. Also, ask your cheese steward for stories behind the cheeses. Your guests may not be clamoring for information about the origin, milk-type, or history of the cheese, but they'll be interested if you present it to them.
Bread and/or Crackers: Every day I hear “What goes well with crackers?” Well, if you like crackers, everything goes well with them. When putting together a cheese plate, provide a selection of hearty breads and crackers that have two functions: to cleanse the palate and to act as a flavor delivery engine vehicle (to get spreadable cheese to the mouth.) My only suggestion here is, stay away from highly flavored crackers as they may get in the way of the flavors of the cheese.
Meats: Cheese is milk that has been preserved. In my opinion, it’s best to pair cheeses with meats which that have gone through a preservation process such as curing or smoking. In other words, I don’t suggest broiling a beef tenderloin to serve with aged gouda. Instead, look for thinly sliced prosciutto, Serrano and other cured hams at your local butcher or deli case. Also consider any number of salamis and sausages. The reason behind matching preserved goods is simple: historically, cheeses and meats were preserved for nutrient retention and portability in the winter and spring. They were eaten together until the summer and autumn harvests of fresh vegetables and fruits added to the table's offerings. A cheese plate is simply a natural extension of this process.
Pickled Vegetables and Olives: Run the gambit with this category. The tart, salty components of Cornichon pickles and any one of thousands of kinds of olives as well as the spicy aspects of pickled peppers, onions, and even sauerkraut, complement very rich cheeses from Wisconsin and Bavaria. Olive bars provide a great selection to choose from, allowing you to offer a variety of different kinds of olives and pickles without breaking the bank. Go for a little bit of everything.
Fresh Fruit, Dried Fruit and Preserves: Fresh apples, pears, plums, cherries, grapes and berries lend acidity and sweetness to balance the richness of cheese; however, the intense sweetness and chewy texture of dried apricots, cranberries and even mango cheeks give a luscious brie or fresh goat cheese a curious complement. In addition, the peppery, piquant qualities of blue cheeses are softened by a drizzle of honey and figs. Quality jams and preserves should be offered on the side, as they give your guests the option to add a bit more sweetness or tartness to the cheese.
The long and short of cheese pairing and cheese plate preparation is that there is no right or wrong way to offer cheese to people. Just make cheese eating an adventure by approaching it naturally.
About the Author:
Christopher Hayes is the specialty cheese steward at the Market of Choice in West Linn, Oregon.
He is more than happy to talk about food, drink and travel until the cows, goats and sheep come home. He can be contacted at mr.christopherhayes@gmail.com.
